The Aimless Wanderers


Muzungu (Luganda n). – white man, European

I made a small breakthrough with my neighbors today. I informed them that my replacement PCV is a Filipino American whose parents come from the Philippines, but is an American citizen. They seemed surprised that his name is Justin, since Justin (pronounced Justine by Ugandans) is a girl’s name here. At one point, my neighbor asked me why we Americans disliked being called muzungu.

Neighbor: “Why do you dislike being called muzungu?”

Me: “Well, first of all what do you think muzungu means?”

Neighbor: “Eh, for us it means a white person.”

Me: “The word muzungu is related to the Luganda word kuzunga which means to wander aimlessly.”

Neighbor: “EH! I have never made that connection.”

Me: “And is kuzunga a good thing?”

Neighbor: “No, to wander aimlessly is not a good thing.”

Me: “Yes, for us we don’t enjoy being told that we are lost and that we don’t belong here. Also not all Americans are white, so it is also a difficulty with identity.”

Neighbor: “Eh, we have picked. Thank you.”

oku-zunga (Luganda n.) – to stagger, reel about, whirl around, or wander aimlessly

Literally two years later my neighbors finally started to understand the reasoning behind the word muzungu and how it has a negative connotation. I also explained that muzungu relates to people who look white and is associated with wealth, short-term tourism, dependence, and not knowing where to go. For PCV’s who have white or semi-white skin the term lumps us all together as a homogenous grouping that disregards our personal identities or heritage. For PCV’s who are black or have brown skin, the term strips away the identity of that person’s heritage by assuming that since that person is from America, then he or she is like the other rich white people.

In the past, I have explained to Ugandans to first ask me to tell them my name or ask me about my heritage before calling me muzungu. I liken it to calling people from the Buganda Kingdom muganda instead of mudugavu. Muganda means brother, or person from the Buganda Kingdom, whereas, mudugavu means a black/dirty person. Mudugavu is related to the verb oku-ddugala, which means to become black or dirty. Even though using the word muganda denotes that the person is black, it also is respectable because that person hails from the Buganda Kingdom and central region of Uganda. However, mudugavu is an epithet because it calls a person dirty and associates the color of black skin with dirt.

When I was a trainee, our trainers told us that many of us would be called muzungu. They explained that it was related to the Kiswahili word kizungu which means of the aimless wanderer. Back then aimless wanderer sounded poetic. Now that I am here, I understand the silliness of that misconception. To be an aimless wanderer isn’t poetic or good, it’s seen as a sign of ignorance, dualism, and the disparity between the developed countries and many developing countries in East Africa. I still believe that it’s good to wander, but instead I feel that it’s better to wander with a purpose rather than without aim.

Muzungu Term

November 17th, 2013

Today was Sunday and our day off, but I feel like I used today to catch up on my errands and chores. I went to St. AlphonsiusCatholic Mass with a bunch of the other volunteers and it felt refreshing to go back to mass again since I had not been going religiously every weekend since I had graduated from Boston University. I really felt the universality of the mass at this Ugandan village’s Catholic Church. As soon as our bus entered the village, everyone started staring at the bus. We entered the church, and heads immediately turned towards our general direction. It was not everyday that a muzungu wandered into one of the core centers of a Ugandan community. The mass, which took about 2 hours or 1 hour and another consisting of community messages, eventually ended after we were called up to the head of the church and asked to individually introduce ourselves to the congregation.

You know, the term muzungu has a very interesting connotation. Ugandans refer to anyone who appears white to be muzungu and it comes from a Kiswahili word which means “aimless wanderer”. It is not a derogatory term, rather it is how Ugandans refer to foreigners such as many Europeans and Americans. From the stories of current PCVs, the term gets tiring sometimes since it is rude in American culture to call someone by that person’s race because every person is more than just a race. However, when it comes down to it I will attempt to think of the term muzungu in the terms of its original meaning. We have all become displaced in our own way. We have all become wanderers in our own way who are leaving our American home in order to wander and hopefully make some sort of difference here in the heart of Africa.